This trip was my third time in China. Each time provided many treasured moments as well as a means to contrast the drastic changes that have occured in the country. The first trip I was in awe of everything - all the historical sites, the history that accompanied those sites, the people, and the differences between the US and China. I just followed mom around, and she took care of everything - I just reveled in the experience.
The second time showed a marked contrast at the historical sites ... Xian was no longer a small, rural village with a tent protecting some uncovered terra cotta soldiers in a farmer's field. It was now a modern city and the soldiers were enclosed in a beautiful building that was joined by other buildings which also housed excavation sites and a meticulous museum. From what Dave described, the area has been even further developed since 2007!
During this second trip, the Yang family (Dave, Vicki, Bob, Olga, mom and I) were able to get a taste of our roots. The book that was lovingly created by San Yi and her dedicated contributors (Xiao Yi, Liu Yi, and Aunt Chinnie among many others) was in the midst of being translated, and Xiao Yi fed us as much as she could so we could have some background on our history before visiting Tianjin. It was wonderful being able to go to Tianjin with mom, Liu Yi, Uncle Yang and Maya. We were able to go into the house's courtyard and hear a few stories from mom and Liu Yi about the house. We were also able to visit Dongya prior to its recent renovation. At the time, the production factory had already been moved but the original site still held a showroom where we could see samples of the wool/yarn. It was a highlight being shown the many picture albums, and though we were hosted by government officials (at least one was from the communist party), our "lunch banquet" seemed to be much more down to earth and less showy. Again, the contrast of the old to new on this 2010 trip was drastic - but also, very comforting to know that they valued this original building enough to preserve it and honor Grandpa and what he did.
It was also interesting to see the house that the government had originally deemed to be Grandpa's and the process mom and Liu Yi had to go through to "prove" that the Sung house was indeed more modest and in a different location. It seems that the plaque on the original house gave a higher historic rating than the current plaque on the correct house ... wonder why?
This third trip, however, was probably the most touching, emotional, and meaningful to me because this trip was focused on our family and places that played a significant role in our history, not just on seeing the tourist sites. So many people research their geneology and try to piece together the journey taken by their ancestors who landed in the U.S. looking for a better life. We had it all hand-delivered to us in the form of a book and a personalized tour - thank you, San Yi, that gift is priceless.
Like Matt, I'm not even sure where to start in describing the impact this trip had on me, and I don't think I can even articulate everything I'd want to say. One of the biggest revelations was just how much Grandpa touched the lives of people in China. I've always heard about the amazing things he did in his life - his factory, his treatment of others regardless of their social status, his generousity and selflessness, his loyalty, his charitable contributions, and so much more. I always knew he was special, successful, and well-known during his time. But on this trip, I got a sense of just how "big" and influential he really was - and still is. And I couldn't help but wonder what things would have been like were he still alive ...
Having the 3 car escort, elaborate banquets, and government officials obviously added to my impression, but even more meaningful were incidents such as at the train station when Mark got stopped and his sword confiscated, and how the mention of mom being grandpa's daughter was enough to change the tough stance of the security guard who had nothing but praise for Grandpa. Also, the camera man at the textile museum was a student at one of Grandpa's Dongya schools and he freely discussed how he admired and appreciated Grandpa for all he had done. Seeing, in person, how Grandpa affected the lives of ordinary people was something that cannot be explained or felt unless you are physically present to experience it ...
The visit to Tianjin was also heartwarming. Though I had been to the house before, this trip was different. Not only did we get to see the inside of the house, but 3 out of the 9 Sung children were there to personally share their memories with us. It's one thing to hear stories, it's another to be able to really visualize them while standing in the exact spot you are describing. I could almost see all of you chasing Uncle Albert up and down the stairs after he spit in the food ... or see LauLau playing Mah Jong or sleeping on the landing. And, it was fun to see the bedrooms you each grew up in, and the balcony that poor Uncle Allen and Alfred had to leave their stinky shoes ... Xiao Yi, you described your experiences at 7 years old ... that's Michaela's age right now ... I can't even imagine ...
I was also very impressed by the special room dedicated to Grandpa at the textile museum. I'm not sure how many people will actually see it, but it once again drove home the sense that Grandpa was so much more influential than I originally imagined. Having never met Grandpa makes him seem more distant, or intangible. However, seeing the government officials pamper the Sung sisters and various groups wanting to interview you three made me realize that I'm not that far removed from him. This thought is bittersweet ... it is amazing to experience how important Grandpa is by seeing how you three were respected and treated by others. But sad to think that with my generation and the next, some of that "respect connection" will be lost. Having said that, I am grateful that you took us on this trip so that we may in some way keep the flame going ...
And lastly, the most moving moments had to be our visit to the Song Village. I'd heard stories about your prior visits to the village, but it wasn't until I actually stepped foot in the village that I understood. At times, reading the book about Grandpa, Great Grandpa, and Great Great Grandpa was hard - learning about the many hardships, horrors, and betrayals to our own relatives is much harder than reading about a stranger. It was heart-breaking to see how rural and poor the village still is, and to see the unkept graves. Again, what a contrast to see the tributes to Grandpa in the big city vs. these unkept graves.
I kept wondering - what do the villagers think of the Sungs? Are these unkept graves a result of their hardlives such that they do not have time to tend them? Or, is there another reason why they are overgrown? What can we do to help them? Do they want us to help them? Why does the government make sure grand gestures toward Grandpa's direct family, but allow these other relatives to live in such poverty?
As much as this village visit was the biggest highlight of the trip, it was also the greatest disappointment. I felt we were way too rushed. I had been looking forward to visiting the village, but didn't feel like there was much time to just soak in the significance of the surroundings. And as Xiao Yi and San Yi stated, we didn't get to talk to the villagers, let alone get introduced to the few relatives who met us. I would have liked to have seen the other home this family lived in ... if nothing else than to make me feel better that they did have a real floor beneath their feet, and not just packed dirt as we saw in the one relative's one-room hut. I would've loved to have visited their fields and understood what their lives were like. So many unanswered questions ... but, San Yi, I am still grateful for the short time we had - thank you for including this part in our tour and opening up the question - what can we do?
The banquets were quite elaborate, but I'm glad I had the opportunity to experience them. I doubt I'll ever be invited to something quite like it again! And though I won't miss being served scorpions, cicadas, and the like, I was facinated by the unsual food affair ... and it makes for interesting conversation! And, I too, was disappointed that the visit to our home in Jinan did not happen ... guess you'll have to arrange another tour back to China for us!
To wrap up my ramblings, the entire trip was, to use Matt's word, "Amazing". All the details you built into our trip made our experience more special. Thank you for your flexibility in allowing us to "customize" our itineraries to visit other places as well as our family heritage sites. I know it literally caused a huge headache for you! And most importantly, San Yi, thank you for sharing our family's history with us, taking us on this trip, and giving us the opportunity to get to know each other better. We had such a fun time on this trip - from experiencing our history to sharing germs to getting a group massage! As with most things, it's the people who make the trip - and the bond we now share is a direct result of this trip. Thanks again, San Yi, and to all of you peeps who helped make this trip so memorable!
Love,
Christine
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